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Today we woke up at 10:00 am and then had breakfast before leaving for the summit push. With much expectation from the weather and the joy of knowing that we will be summiting, I could hardly sleep throughout the night. Weather man was smiling with expectation improvement.
However the news that reached us was quite sad. They just revealed that least six (6) climbers were declared missing in the massively foggy windy snow blast at the top of Elbrus the previous day.
Oh courage Oh courage should I faint without a try? If I fail before I try is not what I came to live but triumph in belief, I prayed on.
My team stood tall in trust overcoming the fear of the impending challenge. There was a lot of adrenalin rush but no room for heart faintness and Elbrus must bow. The self-talk got stronger and louder, with the hearts adjusting for the journey ahead. Fear must be barnished we all agreed.
To begin, we had to agree on the route up so I chose to walk from the base camp of 3700 altitude to minimize the risk of altitude sickness. The others took the snowcat to Barras of located in 4800 altitude where we agreed to meet at about 4:30 am.
So the journey began with calm and beauty the weather waved us off , it was the best time according to good knowledge of the area, Mount Elbrus is very cold at night ,so much concentration and discipline was needed. As we journeyed on in silence and in bright moonlight our breath did all the talking, and the sheer peace that came with the quietness is still indescribable as we continued spiritedly to the roof of Mount Elbrus. And after about 2 hours of good climb my guide signaled that we will be getting some rest soon.
For me it was a great experience going up from the base camp, it gave me the opportunity to connect enough with the nature and beauty of Elbrus, not long we agreed for a break, and then I thought of removing some of my layers of insulation. The climb did kick my body warmth really well so I was going to need fewer layers of insulation I imagined.
While getting some rest drinking really hot tea we engaged in some talk about how beautiful the weather had turned out and the inspiration that we have just shared. It seemed planned but it was not. It was near perfect because it was all happening by it itself. Elbrus was showing her kind self for now.
After some good rest we continued our climb in calm and quietness and not long the snowcat came to our view with its strong lights announcing the arrival of our climb mates at our meeting point in Barras. Just about then the wind picked up and with traction too. As soon as we approached our climb mates we had more snowflakes and wind power. We continued climbing for over an hour and as the wind and snow strength increased we took refuge in an old snowcat where we met two other climbers adjusting their gear for the journey ahead.
Once again we drank some tea and while in this refuge I started feeling really cold , and was glad that I did not remove my insulation layers as I once thought I would More so I really appreciated the extra Jacket I was given by a friend in Geneva. He was so sure I was going to need it so he gave it to me in the very last minute. Thanks man I really appreciate your experience it made the difference.
Shortly after our drinks we had to leave so when we got out of our refuge I asked our guide if I could go ahead because I was feeling really cold from inactivity. So I used my work rate to generate more heat against the increasing cold feeling. As we continued up my mate asked me to help him take some of his things i.e camera, Tea container etc, and that was quiet a source of regret as they would never see me again.
I was gone and for the summit without them and if they would have to drink or make photos that was to be just a dream as I was heading North by every step while they were going in the opposite direction.Very south by every step!
Keeping my work rate meant that I was going to leave everybody in my group behind, I was off all by myself this time.
As I continued up I made a wonderful experience with the many climbers I came across, they were all very nice people who took great interest in me, with the readiness to help me as they were asking if I needed any kind of help. “I am fine I politely replied.
At one point I was hiding between stones with the hope that my climbing mates will meet up with me. This was very hard and disappointing as I waited until a guide from one of the groups identified my guide as a friend, she then offered that I join their team instead of waiting in the cold. But I declined, thinking that my group will be joining me soon. It did not take too long before I realized that waiting in cold was not going to be fun especially with the growing wind strength so I summed up courage to take the challenge since the whole ideal was all about challenge.
Yes I did after 40minutes of waiting between rocks in the dead cold and winds of Mount Elbrus. I hurried up with the hope of joining the group I had just turned down Not long they were in sight, and I saw the group all roped in line for safety purposes but for me I was alone all by myself, though I knew that was not so a practice, but I had to do it anyway.
Remember this is all about challenge so I took the challenge and that made the difference. With faith in God I continued in prayers so she asked me to rope myself too and that gave me more confidence. Sadly as I was trying to knot the rope, I lost one the gloves to the very high winds, today it belongs to the valley of Elbrus.
The journey continued into the steep passage announcing the proximity of the summit. The guide called again to inform me that we were just about 10 minutes away from the summit. That was a good boost I reckoned. Nearing the summit and in a borrowed team was a gift to the top, so we continued and we arrived at the summit, I was quite exhausted but excited so I lay down in celebration but I was quickly asked to stand up. Just then I realized it was not a good idea to do that. Then I got up on my feet brought my flags out from my back pack and waved them in ecstasy as they made photos of this great moment.
Mount Elbrus summit achieved!!!!!!
We spent about 10 minutes at the summit thanks to the strong wind, we were asked to start descending. It looked like the wind was doubled to test our resolve. But I have been told that, the north pole has a direct impact on the strength of the cold and wind at the summit.
I was happy going down even though it was proving tough with the harsh weather. I knew I had to stay focused and calm to reach the base camp safely. So the journey down continued as I made my way through the windy snowflakes. I decided to keep a good pace because i was avoiding making any stop. I was soon alone again thanks to my pace , but I remained focused walking down with discipline to my strategy. I did not dare to drink nor stop else I would have given up. so I matched on step by step. I started to imagine the base camp by the step trusting that every step will bring me closer and closer to it. After a good long trust between my steps I started to see the base camp and I was so happy that I was getting closer and closer to safety and a warm bed of course. On arrival I went straight to my room to remove my gear, and before I could think of catching a nap, my guide came into the room to see how I was doing. she was beaming with excitement of shared pride, she hugged me to say well done as she expressed her joy for the successful climb. She then went on to explain to me what had happened after I left them behind on our way up. She told me how they had to turn back and how disappointing it was for her not to be at the summit with me.
In response I also let her know how proud was of her ,I realizing the difficult decision she had to take to safely return my climb mate to the base camp alone. I imagined that to be a real difficult moment for anyone looking forward to lead a group to the summit of Europe. After the exchange of pleasantries I rested for about 30 minutes after which I got soup and some nourishment.
I was becoming impatient and I wanted to know if we could leave immediately as i was already feeling very cold, so I was looking forward to my warm bath and nice sleep.
Luckily my guide agreed and urged us to pack our stuffs after finishing our soup. I was so happy to know that I will be meeting my family back in Terskol with the good news of my achievements with them all as team.
The journey back felt shorter and was full of excitement, as the wind had already subsided with a well-meaning afternoon sun presenting itself so proudly to a very warm heart like me. It felt so complete a moment. As we returned our driver was waiting for us for an onward journey to the house where we were staying.
The excitement continued on our arrival after with our first cook on hand to congratulate me for the bold achievement, especially as my guide had and already explained to her how I fought my way through alone to the summit.
I was offered my favorite green tea and some cream to apply to my cold burnt face, thanks to the cold strong wind I fought against to get to the summit.
Then after the only natural thing was to find my bed after a good shower. I died in the sleep and only woke up around 10:00pm.We had dinner and i got the promise of my well-deserved Elbrus Summit certificate. Once more!!!
Ladies and Gentlemen.
I am feeling like a Russian with a smile, I will be keeping you posted in the future on the next challenge.
My best wishes to you all ,a big hug and mighty cheers to you all.
Smile a lot for it is worth it
Alex
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